Pastel Boa (reptile)

This Pastel Boa is ready to be re-homed. She is like 50in. and has some very beautiful light colored saddles, with a nice bright Red Tail. She is very Docile, and has a great temperment. If interested, I'm in San Diego, so if your local, we can meet.

Mexican Boa

mexican boas

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CanCun, Mexico Boas ( Boa c. imperator )

We have been producing these beautiful boas since the early 1990s. CanCun boas are moderately sized, mature early and breed easily at our latitudes here in the USA. Ours will breed first at age three while still slightly under 1.3 meters (4 feet). Large mature females from our breeding group are under 2 meters long. CanCun boas are strongly patterned and very colorful. They are among the more calm of the boas from Mexico.

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CanCun Mexican Boa photographed in the wild ( Boa c. imperator )

An extraordinary example of a colorful High Pattern Density (HPD) boa. From the upper Yucatan peninsula, Quintana Roo, Mexico.

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Dwarf or Tarahumara Mexico Boa ( Boa c. imperator )

Locality
Sierra Tarahumara lies in the northern states of Chihuahua and Sonora Mexico. These areas of high peaks, forested plateaus and deeply eroded riparian canyons are sometimes referred to as Sky Islands in the desert. It is here at altitudes of 4000’ or more where these “dwarf” boas (B. constrictor imperator.) originated.

History in culture
A researcher from the University of Arizona (UA) brought back a single pair of these boas in the mid 1990’s. That pair made their way into the private sector where soon after an Arizona collector bred them. That first breeding resulted in a single live male. In the 1998/1999 season they bred again, ten babies with a high male ratio were born. Rio Bravo Reptiles did acquire a male/female pair of these boas in early 2001 from an associate here in Texas. By the winter of ‘02 the 3-1/2 year old boas had grown to 37” in length. In 2002 both myself and Graham Criglow of Bryan, TX successfully produced healthy litters of Tarahumara dwarf boas. Prior to these breedings there existed only the original 13 animals (1.1 WC original pair, 1.0 1st breeding baby and 0.0.10 2nd breeding babies) in our hobby. The pair maintained here and those previously held by Mr. Criglow (who helped with this info) are the only Tarahumara boas known to have been kept together and bred pure for their unique locality. Rio Bravo Reptiles has since acquired that breeding pair and is committed to keeping these boas alive in culture.

What is a dwarf Boa?
Genetics and food availability combine to determine the adult size of boas in captivity. A locality or form could be considered dwarf if individuals reach sexual maturity and give viable young without complication at a significantly smaller size and mass. Mainland populations of Boa constrictor properly managed mature in 3-5 years at 5 to 6 feet in length, depending upon the subspecies and to a lesser extent the locality. The imperator sub-species generally will mature earlier at a somewhat smaller size than the B. constrictor c. Some insular forms (Corn Is. as an example) can and do breed successfully at lengths just over 40”. The Tarahumara boas bred and gave birth while still less than 38” long with a mass of 1.6 kilograms.

It is not known how large the Tarahumara boas would become if fed aggressively over a period of years. However, other mainland forms of Boa managed similarly would have attained lengths of 5 feet or more in the same period of time. And deliberately rationing food to keep Boas small inhibits their ability to reproduce. The Tarahumara boas are true dwarfs.

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Newborn Dwarf or Tarahumara Mexico Boa ( Boa c. imperator )

Neonate Tarahumara boas are strongly patterned. Of particular interest are the head markings. These little babies will mature and breed at age 3 years while still less than .98 meters (38”) long.

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Orange Phase Sonoran Boa ( Boa c. imperator )
The Sonoran boas have the highest average saddle-count of all the imperator. These orange-phase examples, most likely first produced by Marcia Lincoln, are sometimes offered for sale as Hypo-Sonorans.

About Boas from Mexico (Boa constrictor imperator)

Habitat for Boa in Mexico includes desert and semi-desert scrub, coastal mangrove swamps, tropical and sub-tropical forest and cloud-forest and remnant northern boreal forest which persist in sky islands above the deserts in the north of the country, at altitudes of sea level to around 5000’ above sea level. The subtle variety in color and pattern of Mexican imperator may confuse locality-oriented keepers and breeders and make locality of origin nearly impossible to accurately determine from casual observation alone.

A general description of Mexico boas could be; a small to moderately large Boa from 1 to about 2.6 meters in length. Mexican boas are generally more heavily patterned than many localities of Boa, or have a high pattern density (HPD) and are marked with well-defined, heavy black or dark-brown dorsal saddles numbering 24-31. Dorsal saddles usually have numerous inclusions and are connected in a continuous or near continuous line. Background color can be tan, chocolate, orange, grey, charcoal, silver or any combination of those colors. Tail or caudal markings vary from entirely black, brown or orange to brick and only sometimes a dull red.

For evolutionary reasons we will likely never understand practically all boas from Mexico will at some time display a startling and imposing defensive behaviour. This display consists of a tightening and bowing of the body, rearing and/or flattening of the head and coiling or writhing of the tail. If these warning signs are ignored the boa will usually take in a body-full of air and emit a loud hissing sound from the epi-glottis equal to the very best any bullsnake or pinesnake can deliver. If this performance still fails to make the threat go away, they will strike. A patient keeper, proper caging and gentle handling will usually result in a very handleable if not completely docile pet.

Quick facts

Photo Bytes

Class: Reptilia (Reptiles)
Order: Squamata
Family: Boidae
Subfamilies:
• Boinae
• Erycinae
Genera: 11
Species: 41
Size: longest—anaconda Eunectes murinus, up to 30 feet (9 meters); shortest—Arabian sand boa Eryx jayakari and elegant sand boa Eryx elegans, both up to 16 inches (40 centimeters)
Weight: heaviest—anaconda, up to 280 pounds (127 kilograms)
Life span: up to 35 years
Number of young: 4 to 40, depending on species
Gestation: 50 to 180 days, depending on species
Size at birth: typically 6 to 24 inches (15 to 61 centimeters), depending on species; up to 2 feet (0.6 meters) from large anaconda mothers
Age of maturity: 3 years
Conservation status: Round Island keel-scaled boa Casarea dussumieri, Madagascar ground boa Acrantophis madagascariensis, and Madagascar tree boa Sanzinia madagascariensis are some of the endangered boas; many others are vulnerable.
Fun facts

• Boa "a large serpent” in Latin.
• Female anacondas grow much larger than the males.
• Boa constrictors like to eat bats! They catch them by hanging from tree branches or the mouths of caves and knocking the bats out of the air as they fly by.
• When some boa species want to mate, several males coil around a female in a ball and wrestle with one another for up to two weeks before one wins—or the female makes a choice.
• The rosy boa Lichanura trivirgata and the rubber boa Charina bottae are the only two species of boas native to the United States.
See them

Range: western North America, Central America, South America, Africa, Madagascar, western Asia, and Pacific Islands
Habitat: rain forests, swamps, woodlands, grasslands, savannas, and semidesert scrublands

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Boas, pythons, and anacondas: What’s the difference?

Because boa constrictors, reticulated pythons, and anacondas are some of the biggest snakes in the world, many people get confused about which is which. The first thing to note is that the anaconda is a species of boa, not a separate type of snake. That leaves two groups, the boas and the pythons. These snakes have some things in common: they are constrictors, killing their prey by wrapping around it and suffocating it, and they are considered primitive snakes with two lungs (most snakes only have one) and remnants of hind legs and pelvic bones. But they have differences, too. Pythons have one more bone in their heads than boas do and some additional teeth, and pythons are found in the Old World (Africa, Asia, Australia) while boas live in both the Old World and the New World (North, Central, and South America). One of the biggest differences is that pythons lay eggs while boas give birth to live young.
Putting the squeeze on dinner

Boas are constrictors, meaning that they grab their prey with their teeth, then quickly wrap their coiled bodies around the prey and squeeze. But they don’t actually crush the prey and break its bones. They just squeeze tightly so that the prey animal’s lungs cannot expand and it suffocates. The snake then begins the leisurely process of unhinging its jaw and swallowing the prey whole, usually headfirst. Rhythmic muscular contractions pull the prey down the snake’s throat and into its stomach. How does the snake breathe while its mouth is full? It has a special tube in the bottom of its mouth that remains open to one side to take in air.

A hot meal

Boas are ambush hunters. They remain still and hidden until a possible meal comes close, then strike forward quickly to catch it. Boas flick their tongues in and out to catch scent particles from the air. This way of "smelling” helps them find their prey. Most species also have special temperature-sensitive scales around their mouths, with lots of nerve endings that can sense the heat of a nearby animal. This allows them to find prey even in the dark or among dense foliage. The tree boas have "pits,” or holes, along their mouths that do the same thing, like their relatives the pythons do. Depending on the size of the snake, boas may eat rodents, birds, lizards, frogs, and small to medium-sized mammals like opossums, monkeys, pigs, or deer. Some anacondas have been known to eat animals as large as a young tapir or even a caiman. At the San Diego Zoo, our boas eat rodents and rabbits that have been killed for them.


A snake that gives birth

Boas do not lay eggs. Instead, they give birth to live young. The young are attached to a yolk sac and surrounded by a clear membrane, not a shell, as they develop in their mother’s body. That way they are kept at a fairly constant temperature and are protected from predators. When the young are ready to be born, they are pushed out an opening called the cloaca. They are still surrounded by the protective membrane and must break it open. Then they are on their own to start protecting themselves (usually by hiding at first) and to find food. Most are smaller versions of the adults and instinctively know how to survive on their own.

"Walk” a straight line

Because of the large size many boas can reach, they move by traveling forward in a straight line, which is known as "rectilinear progression.” This is accomplished by stiffening the ribs to provide support, then lifting a set of ventral (on the belly) scales and moving them forward so the loose ends grip the surface, pushing the snake ahead. This type of movement works on the ground as well as in trees, and boas can even climb smooth surfaces. They can’t move very fast, though, only about 1 mile per hour (1.6 kilometers per hour) on open ground. But since they don’t have to chase their food, they don’t need to travel quickly.


Not the bad guys

Boas often appear in movies and stories that take place in the jungle, usually as the "villain” sliding menacingly through the trees. That’s probably because these big snakes make a big impression! But boas are usually pretty quiet and calm and don’t deserve their nasty reputation. They are not venomous, and many do not live in jungles. Boas are found in a variety of habitats, including open woodlands—like the rainbow boa Epicrates cenchria—and rocky, semi-desert scrublands—like the Egyptian sand boa Eryx colubrinus. The ones that live in dry environments usually hang out in rock crevices or in underground burrows made by other animals. The ones that live in forests blend into the leaf litter on the ground to stay hidden. All in all, a boa would rather avoid people than go looking for trouble!

Western Pennsylvania Reptile Expo

The Western Pennsylvania Reptile Expo is this Sunday, August 2nd and then again on October 18th and December 6th, 2009 at the Mars VFW Hall, located at 323 Mars-Valencia Road, Mars, PA 16046. The Expo is from 9:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m. Cost for admission is $4.00 per person and children 5 years old or younger are admitted for free. More info can be found at parepexpo.com or by calling (724)991-6658. At the Expo you can see and select from thousands of reptiles, amphibians, arachnids, feeder foods, habitats, novelty items and more. All...

Red Tail Boa

Red-tail Boa Constrictor - Boa constrictor constrictor

In the wild, the red-tailed boa lives in a wide range of habitats, from high cloud forests to dry low lands. It is also frequently found near towns, where it preys on the rats and mice that often accompany populated areas. The red-tailed boa also feeds on other small mammals, amphibians, lizards, other snakes and birds. There are several subspecies of boa constrictor (species name boa constrictor) that are found in the pet trade. Red tailed boas (Boa constrictor constrictor) are commonly found in the pet trade

Before committing to ownership of a boa constrictor, be sure you will be able to handle the size and strength of a full grown snake for the 25-30 years your snake might live. A full grown boa constrictor (red tailed) will reach 8-10 feet long and weigh up to 50 pounds. These are very muscular and thick bodied snakes. While generally quite docile in temperament, it is important to respect the inherent strength of these animals and that could inflict serious injury to a person. I would consider this an advanced handler pet. Unless you have had snakes before and are committed your pets health AND have appropriate space available to cage an animal this size - do not buy one. Additionally - small dogs and cats are prey to an adult red tail boa - remember this.

DO NOT FEED WILD MICE/RATS ETC OR SUCH ANIMALS FOUND AROUND THE HOUSE – THEY MAY CARRY DISEASES AND PESTICIDES THAT COULD BE DEADLY TO YOUR PET

Average Size - The average hatchling is about 16-18 inches long, and adults can pretty easily reach 10 feet and 50+ pounds.

Life Span - On average 20 - 30 years.

Diet - Primarily rodents such as mice and rats - full grown adults can eat rabbits.

Feeding - They only need to be fed every week or two. Young snakes should be fed fuzzy mice every 5-7 days, older snakes should be fed increasingly larger prey and can go a little longer (i.e. 10 - 14 days). Use pre-killed prey as live rodents can injure a snake - dangling the prey in front of the snake with forceps usually gets the snake interested. Adults will need to feed on rats and even rabbits!

If your snake stops eating, carefully examine the husbandry, handling, health, and environment of the snake to make sure stress isn't the culprit. Consult a knowledgeable vet or experienced keeper for help if the fast is prolonged or causing weight loss. If necessary, some tricks to entice a boa to eat include dipping the prey in chicken broth, trying different colors of prey, exposing the brain of the prey before feeding it, feeding at night, covering the cage with towels after offering a mouse.

Housing - Young red tail boas (16-28 inches) will do pretty good in a ten gallon size enclosure (20x10x12 inches). A cage amounting to ¾ square foot per foot of snake is what will be needed as an adult. Shelves can and should be used to increase floor space and allow somewhere to "go" when active. A shelf also allows a warmer basking site, while forming a cooler area underneath.

Substrate - The substrate of the habitat should be easy to maintain. I have tried bark etc and frankly these snakes can crap up a storm. The best bet is just clean linoleum, plain paper or astroturf.

Habitat - Provide a hiding place. A half-log is available at pet stores. An empty cardboard box or upside-down plastic container, both with an access doorway cut into one end, can also be used when the red tailed boa is young. The plastic is easily cleaned when necessary; the box can be tossed out when soiled and replaced with a new one. The box or log must be big enough for the snake to hide its entire body inside; if you start with a small one, you will need to eventually replace it as your snake grows. Red tail boas prefer dark places for sleeping and, as they are nocturnal, they like the dark place during our daylight hours. Place a nice climbing branch or two in the tank or cage

Temperature - . The ambient daytime air temperature throughout the enclosure must be maintained between 82-90 F, with a basking area kept at 90-95 F. At night, the ambient air temperature may be allowed to drop down no lower than 78-85 F. Special reptile heating pads that are manufactured to maintain a temperature about 20o higher than the air temperature may be used inside the enclosure. There are adhesive pads that can be stuck to the underside of a glass enclosure. You can also use incandescent light bulbs in porcelain and metal reflector hoods to provide the additional heat required for the basking area, or ceramic heating elements which can be put into regular light sockets and radiate heat downward.

Lighting - No special lighting is needed. Red tail boas are nocturnal snakes, spending their days in the wild securely hidden away from possible predators. To make it easier to see your boa during the day, you can use a full-spectrum light or low wattage incandescent bulb in the enclosure during the day. Make sure the snake cannot get into direct contact with the light bulbs.

Water - provide a dish large enough for the snake to soak in. I use the bottom of a cat litter box. Soaking is especially important during sheds. Some owners like to provide a covered dish (e.g. plastic storage container) with a hole in the lid, to provide security for the snake so it will soak longer if necessary. Another alternative is to provide a humidity retreat, which similarly uses a covered container with an access hole lined with damp sphagnum moss to provide the moisture (a water dish is still provided outside the retreat).

Recommended Supplies:

Habitat with secure lid Thermometer Light timer Misting bottle

Substrate Incandescent light or ceramic heater Book on boa constrictors

Habitat Maintenance Change water daily remove droppings. Thoroughly clean the tank at least once each week: set boa aside in a secure habitat - a snake/reptile bag works well; scrub the tank and furnishings with a 3% bleach solution; rinse thoroughly with water, removing all smell of bleach; dry the tank and furnishings; and add clean substrate

Grooming and Hygiene When cleaning housing, check boa for any abrasions, signs of parasites or or fungal infections. Always wash your hands before and after touching your snake or habitat contents to help prevent Salmonella and other infectious diseases

Captive Breeding Status - Sexing a Red tail boas is relatively easy. Like all pythons and boas, they have anal spurs. These claw-like structures are about 2" - 3" from the tip of the tail. Males have longer spurs than females. The spurs are thought to be evolutionary remnants of hind legs. Males also tend to have smaller heads than females. Mating usually requires a mild cooling or partial hibernation period. These snakes are live bearers Their gestation period can range from four to six months. The litters are large with up to 30 babies, each about 24 inches (61 cm)

Signs of a Healthy Pet:

Clear eyes Clear nose and mouth Active and alert

Eats regularly Healthy skin

Common Health Issues and Red Flags:

Vomiting Discharge in nose or mouth Lethargy

Abnormal feces Decreased appetite Cloudy eyes

If you notice any of these signs, please contact your exotic animal veterinarian.

As with all pets in this category, it is important that you find a veterinarian that practices in EXOTICS – this is critical. The typical small animal practitioner may not have sufficient knowledge in this area. Even this guide is general in nature and should not be used to diagnose your pet.

Red Tail Boa

Take a moment....
...and ask yourself a couple of very important questions such as: do you really want a snake that will get to be 10 feet long, weigh over 50 pounds, urinate and defecate like a St. Bernard, should live more than 30 years and for whom you will have to kill mice, rats and, eventually, small rabbits? Many people think that it will be easy to find someone who will take it if they decide they don't want their Boa when it is 8 or 10 feet long. So, take a look at the classified ads--they always have sale ads for big pythons and boas. The zoo doesn't want any more--they already have more giant snakes than they need. The local herpetology societies and reptile veterinarians always have big snakes for whom they are trying to find homes. At 8 feet and 40 pounds, a 2-year old Boa may already be eating rabbits a couple of times a month and can be very unwieldy to handle alone. You have to interact with them constantly to keep them tame--do you want a hungry, cranky 10 foot snake mistaking your face for prey? Another consideration is who is going to help you clean its enclosure? take it to the vet when it's sick? take care of it when you go away to school or on vacation? No matter how much they love you, there are some things a mother, and your friends, will not do! Owning a big snake is not cool; it is a major, long-term commitment and responsibility.

There has been a disturbing increase over the past year or so (1996 to present) of boas being dumped by their owners (many of whom tried to sell the 6+ foot boa only to find that, no matter how much they reduced their price, no one was interested in buying) on animal shelters and reptile rescues. Many of these snakes are in terrible condition, with respiratory infections, riddled with endo- and ectoparasites, many suffering severe injury and infection from untreated rat bites and thermal burns. This is a clear indication that many people who are buying boas shouldn't be.

Take another moment...

1. ....and read about inclusion body disease, a virus that affects only boas and pythons and that has become increasingly widespread as stores and too many breeders and dealers fail to take proper precautions when integrating new stock. It is always fatal to pythons and generally fatal to boas. If you have a boa or python and are considering buying another one, quarantine it for at least 6 months! By this I mean strict quarantine. Follow proper cleaning routines when doing maintenance with your quarantine animals. If you think you are safe because you are buying from a reputable shop or breeder, think again.
   

Natural History
The name "Red-Tail Boa" has commonly been used by pet stores and snake aficionados to distract the public's attention from the fact that their proper name is boa constrictor. Many people who do not know much about snakes are fearful of all "constrictors," especially large constrictors; Red-Tail Boa sounds much less threatening. In fact, not all boa constrictors are red-tailed. While many boas on the market are true red-tailed Boa constrictor constrictor imported from Brazil, with a few coming from very limited areas in Columbia, the Amazon, Guyana, and Surinam, most are actually B. c. imperator from Columbia, with a few coming in from Mexico, Hogg Island and countries throughout Central America. There are seven other subspecies of B. constrictor from South America which can sometimes be found in the retail and private pet trade. All of the Boa ssp. are listed as threatened on Appendix II of the Convention on the International Trade in Endangered Species: the Argentine Boa (B. c. occidentalis) is on Appendix I--the endangered listing. Appendix II animals can be exported and imported with the proper permits, and can legally be sold through the pet trade; Appendix I animals require special permits to buy, sell, trade and own.

Ranging from the high cloud forests to the dry low lands, these beautifully marked snakes are only moderately arboreal. Frequently found near human habitation (due to the quantity of rodents found near human habitats), Boas are primarily nocturnal or crepuscular (active at dawn and dusk). In the extreme northern and southern portions of their range, the Boas will often go through several weeks of inactivity to get through the periods of extreme cold or drought, a behavior that may be observed in captivity as the weather changes throughout the year. Those snakes living in the consistently high humid temperatures of the rain forest areas will remain active throughout the year.

Boas devour a variety of prey in the wild - amphibians, lizards, other snakes, birds and mammals. In captivity, they should be fed pre-killed mice, rats and, when adults, rabbits and chickens. You can buy the rodents and rabbits at pet stores; these animals have been specially raised and are clean, healthy and well-nourished. Chickens can be purchased at hatcheries; do not feed raw chicken pieces purchased at the grocery store - up to 80% of it may be infected with Salmonella bacteria. Chickens from hatcheries should also be considered suspect due to the overcrowded conditions typical of most hatcheries; check the hatchery out first before you buy. Under no circumstances should you feed your snakes wild-caught prey items. Wild rodents and other animals carry a variety of parasites and bacteria for which your snake has no immunity. If you cannot afford to buy the proper food, you should not buy the snake.

That cute little 2 ounce, 14-22" hatchling laying cupped in the palm of your hand will increase its size by up to 300% in its first year, reaching 5-6 feet during that time. The following year will add another 3-4 feet to its length, as well as several pounds. After the second year, the growth rate slows down significantly, but snakes do continue to grow, however slightly, during their entire lives. The live bearing females will give birth to 10-60 young (depending upon the subspecies) after a gestational period of 4-10 months (depending upon temperature and several other factors). Unlike most big snakes, many female Boas do not bear young each year.

GETTING STARTED

Selecting Your Boa Constrictor
Choose an animal that has clear firm skin, rounded body shape, clean vent, clear eyes, and who actively flicks its tongue around when handled. When held, the snake should grip you gently but firmly when moving around. It should be alert to its surroundings. All young snakes are food for other, larger snakes, birds, lizards and mammalian predators so your hatchling may be a bit nervous at first but should settle down quickly. Like the pythons, Boas have anal spurs. These single claws appearing on either side of the vent are the vestigial remains of the hind legs snakes lost during their evolution from lizard to snake millions of years ago. Males have longer spurs than do the females. There is little difference in temperament between the two sexes. Imported Colombian B. c. imperator and B. c. constrictor are the nicest, least aggressive of all the Boas. The other true red-tails tend to be testy and aggressive. Captive-bred Boas of all subspecies tend to be more docile than their wild-caught counterparts.

Housing

Snake-Proof Enclosure
Select an enclosure especially designed for housing snakes, such as those with the combination fixed screen/hinged glass top. All snakes are escape artists; Boas are especially powerful and can easily break out of a tank sealed with a board and a couple of bricks. A good starter tank for a hatchling is a 20 gallon tank. After the first couple of years, you will have to build your own enclosure out of wood and glass or Plexiglas or purchase a tank made by producers of large reptile enclosures. Be prepared - big snakes need lots of room, not the least of which is an enclosure big enough for you to get in and clean it out!

Suitable substrate
Use paper towels at first. These are easily and quickly removed and replaced when soiled and, with an import, will allow you to better monitor for the presence of mites and the condition of the feces. Once the animal is established, you can use more decorative ground cover such as commercially prepared shredded cypress or fir bark. Pine, cedar and aspen shavings should not be used as they can become lodged in the mouth while eating, causing respiratory and other problems. The bark must be monitored closely and all soiled and wet portions pulled out immediately to prevent bacteria and fungus growths. The utilitarian approach is to use inexpensive Astroturf. Extra pieces of Astroturf can be kept in reserve and used when the soiled piece is removed for cleaning and drying (soak in a solution of two tablespoons of household bleach in for each gallon of water; rinse thoroughly, and dry completely before reuse). Remember: the easier it is to clean, the faster you'll do it!

Hiding Place
A hiding place should be provided for Boas. A half-log (available at pet stores), an empty cardboard box or upside-down opaque plastic container, both with an access doorway cut into one end, can also be used. The plastic is easily cleaned when necessary; the box can be tossed out when soiled and replaced with a new one. Many Boas enjoy hanging out on branches; provide clean branches big enough to support the Boa's weight. If you use a found branch, soak first in the bleach/water solution, then clean water to thoroughly rinse; place in cage only when completely dry. If you use rocks and bricks to construct a cave, be sure to affix them firmly in place. Boas are very strong, and can easily topple such a structure when moving about. When the rocks tumble on the snake, severe injuries may result.

Temperature Gradient
The proper temperature range is essential in keeping your snake healthy. The ambient daytime air temperature throughout the enclosure must be maintained between 82-90 F (28-32 C), with a basking area kept at 90-95 F (32-35 C). At night, the ambient air temperature may be allowed to drop down no lower than 78-85 F (26-30 C). Special reptile heating pads that are manufactured to maintain a temperature about 20^o higher than the air temperature may be used inside the enclosure. There are adhesive pads that can be stuck to the underside of a glass enclosure. Heating pads made for people, available at all drug stores, are also available; these have built-in high-medium-low switches and can be used under a glass enclosure. You can also use incandescent light bulbs in porcelain and metal reflector hoods to provide the additional heat required for the basking area, or the new ceramic heating elements which can be put into regular light sockets and radiate heat downward. All lights must be screened off to prevent the snake from burning itself. All snakes are susceptible to thermal burns. For this same reason do not use a hot rock. Buy at least two thermometers - one to use in the overall area 1" above the enclosure floor, and the other 1" above the floor in the basking area. Ideally, you should place a third thermometer at near the upper basking bench or branch. Don't try to guess the temperature--you will end up with a snake who will be too cold to eat and digest its food. Once your snake has grown quite large, you may wish to invest in a pig blanket, a large rigid pad for which you can buy a thermostat to better control the temperature.

No special lighting is needed

You may use a full-spectrum light or low wattage incandescent bulb in the enclosure during the day but snake, having evolved to living underground, have not need for regular full-spectrum/UV lighting. If you do use such a light in the tank, make sure the snake cannot get into direct contact with the light bulbs, nor burrow itself into the casing of the fluorescent hood. If you are uncertain about what lights out there do what, please ask a reputable reptile owner, or pet store.

Feeding
Allow your snake to acclimate for a couple of weeks to its new home. Start your hatchling off with a single pre-killed week to 10-day old "fuzzy" rat. A smaller sized hatchling may require a small mouse. Larger Boas may be fed larger pre-killed rats. The rule of thumb is that you can feed prey items that are no wider than the widest part of the snake's body. While Boas will often gladly eat prey that is actually too large for it, they will generally regurgitate the prey item one or more days later. Not a pretty sight. If you have not had any experience force feeding a snake, you may not want to try it yourself until you have seen someone do it. Force feeding should be an action of last resort, as it is very stressful for the snake--and the owner! It is very easy to overfeed captive snakes, especially the boas and pythons, as they do not get enough opportunity to exercise and burn calories in captivity as they do in the wild. Be judicious--your snake will get big and impressive soon enough. Feed it enough to keep it healthy, not obese.

Provide fresh water
Keep a bowl of fresh water available at all times. Your snake will both drink and soak, and may defecate, in it. Check it often and change it as needed. A warm bath in your bathtub will also be welcomed just before your Boa is ready to shed.

Veterinary Care
Routine veterinary screening for newly acquired snakes is essential. Many of the parasites infesting Boas and other reptiles can be transmitted to humans and other reptiles. Left untreated, such infestations can ultimately kill your snake. When your snake first defecates, collect the feces in a clean plastic bag, seal it, label it with the date, your name and phone number and the snake's name, and take it and your snake to a vet who is experienced with reptiles. Ask that it be tested for worms and protozoans, which are two different tests. If either test is positive, your Boa will be given medication given that you can repeat later at home.

Handling your new snake
After giving your Boa a couple of days to settle in, begin picking it up and handling it gently. It may move from you, and may threaten you by doing tail lashings and hissing. Be gentle but persistent. Daily contact will begin to establish a level of trust and confidence between you and your snake. When it is comfortable with you, you can begin taking it around the house. Don't get over-confident! Given a chance and close proximity to seat cushions, your Boa will make a run (well, a slither) for it, easing down between the cushions and from there, to points possibly unknown. Always be gentle, and try to avoid sudden movements. If the snake wraps around your arm or neck, you can unwind it by gently grasping it by the tail and unwrapping it from around you. If you start at the head, you will find that your snake is stronger than you are, or at least, more tenacious.

Necessities
Some things you should have on hand for general maintenance and first aid include: Nolvasan (Chlorhexidine diacetate) for cleaning enclosures and disinfecting food and water bowls, litter boxes, tubs and sinks etc. Betadine (povidone/iodine) for cleansing scratches and wounds. Set aside a food storage bowl, feeding and water bowls, soaking bowl or tub, even sponges, to be used only for your Boa.

Enjoy Yourselves
You have a companion that will be a part of your life for a great many years if taken care of properly. Snakes should remain alert and active well into their old age. The main causes of death of snakes in captivity are directly related to their care: improper temperatures, contact with heating and lighting elements, no regular access to water, lack of necessary veterinary care and treatment, careless handling--all things for which we, as their caretakers, are directly responsible.